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Overall Rating: Good. Just remember what it is designed for - garden tools and equipment.
I downloaded the 2011 instruction manual and read it completely before attempting any construction. That helped a lot. I put instructions that came with the shed and the 2011 instructions in a 3-ring binder. That also helped the assembly process go smoother.
I spent a day making a 2X8 frame base with 2X4 joists on metal hangers, all PT, raised on concrete deck blocks with deck blocks under several of the floor joists also. I used exterior 23/32 plywood sheathing for the floor. Then primed and painted really well with exterior enamel oil based paint. It rained the next day and the sub floor did very well in the weather by itself. I would recommend priming and painting the sub floor before assembling the shed. It is very important to make this step level and square.
I assembled the shed completely by myself (including the shutters) in 10 hours total start to finish. That included disassembling the walls and floor once to reverse a floor panel so the holes line up correctly for the door hinge poles. I started assembly using the 2011 instructions (owners manual). I quickly discovered parts of the shed were redesigned and abandoned the 2011 instructions manual. For example the new walls install counter clockwise instead of clockwise and the roof gable over the door was redesigned also. The 2011 instructions had more written directions, but it is very important to follow the directions that come with the shed. It is also very important to perform each step exactly as directed. In the 4/25/2013 instructions step 7.5 is eliminated (assembling part AHW to the right door latch AIO). Apparently this part, although still included, was deemed unnecessary. One process change I made and would recommend: after assembling the walls to the floor, I repositioned the shed to be evenly spaced on the subfloor and then secured the floor to the subfloor. Once the full shed is assembled it will weigh 750 lbs. and may be difficult to reposition on the sub floor. If you need to make the adjustments for door alignment listed in section 13 you can unsecure the corners of the floor.
The screws and bolts are packaged together in "bags" with the correct parts for a particular assembly phase. I opened each bag as I got to it's assembly step and had no problems identifying the parts to be used for each purpose. I tightened every screw carefully by hand with a screw driver and carefully lined up each part as I went. Some screws will not "feel" tight so it is important to visually watch them tighten also. When the plastic stops moving together, stop tightening.
The holes for the shutters do not line up very well with the marked spots on the wall panels.
I intent to caulk inside along the floor seams, inside at the floor/wall joints, outside at the floor/wall joints, and outside where the floor meets the sub floor.
Rating:  [4 of 5 Stars!] |
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